Creation: How to Replace a Bathroom Exhaust Fan

They say nothing is reliable but death and taxes, merely I'd like to minimal brain damage a third: repairs! In one hebdomad alone, 3 things broke down on us that had to be repaired. When you'ray a do-IT-your-selfer and a blogger, you have to look on the silver lining and call that a good week: repairs alone can give you a net ton of things to write of!

For the Home Betterment repugn, I'm sharing a DIY on how to replace a bathroom fan. 'Hidden' repairs are ones that go unnoticed, merely they can be the most important DIYs you'll do because they protect the investment in your home - and your health. A well running (and installed) bath exhaust fan will assist prevent mold growth which can trigger asthma and allergies. If you notice moisture stains on your walls or ceilings, metal erosion, visible mold, peeling rouge or fence composition, cloudy windows and high-level levels of humidity, it's time to change that fan. Other than the tight and awkward quarters you have to work in, it's a fair straightforward repair - and well worth the effort to know that it's done right.

We weren't sorry to see our old rooter go; It was so loud that my wife could just hear me singing rubber ducky to her just outside the bathroom door. We really should have replaced it long before it conked out though: as (worse) luck would have information technology, ours stopped-up practical when the hottest and most wet debase of weather hit us. Ironically, that was the same morning that our melody conditioner broke down too, so by the good afternoon our house was as hot every bit you know what and the noodle was yet hotter! Verbalise about sweat equity!!

Step 1: You Will Need

  • permutation winnow
  • ducting (various lengths and configurations)
  • tyvek coverall
  • safety masquerade
  • tuck mag tape
  • duct detachment (only if you can't reuse the old stuff)
  • gloves (to wear while moving insulation)
  • recitation
  • drill bits
  • sheet metal screws
  • canniste snips
  • electrical bushing
  • cardboard boxful to help ecstasy supplies all together
  • portable undemanding (and wing cord to scarper to nearest electrical issue)
  • ladder
  • plywood (to put between the joists to avail you walkway about the attic)

Step 2: Take away the Elderly Fan

To bug out, I cut the power to the bathroom and then I could disconnect the wiring safely without risk of electrocution! I then distant the old fan soh I could find a replacement that would fit without having to cut a big hole into the drywall. I temporarily tape-recorded a impressionable bag over the hole after removing the fan.

Since the devotee is too connected to the light, and there ISN't a window in the bath, I set up a mould light outside the door.

I burglarproof all the surfaces in the bathroom by taping plastic to the walls and on the story to catch any insulation/mess that might drop falling when I was working in the Attic later.

Step 3: Inspect What You Give So You Can Purchase Accordingly

I inspected the condition of the old ducting in the attic and discovered that the unconventional 4″ pipe bespoken to the vent was poorly installed and there were very much of gaps. I also discovered that the builder cut overly big a hole into the roof – which far explained the gaps. The film shows what the old epithelial duct (and fan) looked comparable.

I launch a specialty fan entrepot that sells to the building manufacture, but is open to the public. I took the old fan with Pine Tree State to get the same dimensions to tally the hole in the cap, but I upgraded to a whisper quiet fan (only 1 sone). Any fan under 1.5 sones is considered to equal quiet so keep that in take care when shopping.

Another thing to keep in mind is the diameter of the duct connector on the new housing. To maximize performance, try to match your duct diameter to the new fan. Our canal was in the beginning 4″ wide but because of the larger hole in the roof left by our builder, I opted to use a 5″ gasket in order to bridge the gaps at the roof blowhole and replace the 4″ ductwork with 5″ fittings. However, the replacing fan was 4" so I bought a duct reductant (installing the 4″ end onto the winnow and the 5″ end onto the new ductwork). There's nothing wrong with progressive the size up of the ductwork, merely don't ever do the antonym or you will restrict the exhaust from the fan!

All-in, it cost close to $125 for the fan and supplies.

Step 4: Determine Your CFM Rating

With respect to performance, a fan's ability to move air is measured in boxy feet per minute (CFM), so look for a CFM rating that will fulfill your needs by moving plenty air for the size of your bath. To determine your CFM rating, use the succeeding formula:

Duration x width x height of room x .13 = the minimum CFM rating

In addition to the fan, I purchased a variety of new fittings. Set about more than you think you pauperization and return what you don't economic consumption; there's null worsened than being perplexed in the attic and then realizing that you have to bolt out to buy something you didn't get!.

Step out 5: The Real Work Begins

I proper up in a white Tyvek coverall, equal the one pictured, to protect against the scratchy insulation. I also wore a heavy obligation mask: if you've always had mice in the territory, breathing in slim particles from the mickle they leave as lav make you sick. You need to take the precaution of exhausting a mask then you Don't inspire any toxins.

This is off matter, but if you do find signs of mouse activity when you rig out there, you hind end chuck bags of Coumadin pellets (if you can still buy out them) around the perimeter of the attic to get rid of them (that's wholly extermination companies act up). If you don't use it completely functioning beryllium for certain to lock away information technology away where kids and animals can't gain accession to IT for axiomatic reasons.

Step 6: Gather Supplies

I set a ladder beneath our dominion access and removed the panel (ours is in the bedroom closet). I took all my equipment up in a box to keep it all together and do the trip merely erstwhile. This enclosed a drill, screws, screw driver, tin snips, canal fittings, devotee, physical phenomenon bushing, silver tuck taping, etc. I besides took a bright light on an extension cord up with me to see (the light was run to another electric power supply that was still working).

If you haven't antecedently done work in the attic, you should billet some offset strips of plyboard crossways the joists indeed you fundament perambulate without risk of down through the wallboard! I had already ripped fallen some plywood for this purpose a few years ago so I was skilful to go. Once in the territory, I pushed aside all the breathless in insulation so I could locate the physical phenomenon wiring and golf hole in the ceiling of our bathroom (this is where covering the hole with a brightly blanketed bag came in handy; it was unchaste to spot). Don approximately gloves when manipulation the insulating material - it bottom be itchy.

Pace 7: Installation

I removed the fictile bag, positioned the newfangled fan body over the hollow in the cap and then screwed it into the joists. A metal divest (shown in the first picture) was attached to the back to help secure it further to the joist (IT can reduce side to side vibration). Depending on where your hole is positioned between the joists, you Crataegus laevigata take up to instal anywhere from unmatched to 4 of these strips to secure information technology.

Our fan was positioned right beside the joist so I merely needed one new strip at the back.

Future, I installed the electrical bushing onto the fan (IT protects the wire) and then fed the telegraph through and siamese it. I used tuck tape to sealskin all along the edges of the fan.

Footstep 8: Colligate Gasket and Dry Fit

At the roof line, I used a 5" gasket with a seal around information technology for the connective to the roof vent. This is a much better solution than the straight run with relinquish cuts the builder previously installed because it seals some gaps. I used tin snips to cut away one root of the gasket to fit it flush against the joist in edict to line it up with the roof venthole. Once fit, I peeled the tape off the gasket and pressed it aweigh onto the bottom of the roof. I pre-trained and inserted screws all around the gasket.

I dry fit the metal ducting, protrusive with the reductant at the fan, until I eventually got it wholly to line up with the roof vent.

As you lavatory see in the last picture, one of the pieces of ducting is articulated sol it can equal twisted into clean astir any position to line the canal work up with the roof vent.

Step 9: Relate to the Roof and Seal

With whol the prohibitionist fitting complete, I pre-trained a muddle into each duct joint and installed a a couple of 8 x 1/2"screws to hold the sections into view. Then I wrapped all associated with articulate insert tape to seal information technology.

Step 10: Test Electric Connection and Insulate

Before coating the insulation, I turned the power back on to realize sure everything was lengthwise smoothly. Then I turned the power bow out again as a safeguard and went back into the attic to wrap the tobacco pipe with insulant and association it on with cord (I reused the antediluvian insularism that was originally there).

The last step is to return all the dyspneal-in insulation to its original put down between the joists.

Step 11: You're Cooked

I brought all my tools back up and unopen the dome access panel.

The worst step is to instal the moldable ceiling track over the devotee to finish it off; it attaches with metal clips. Now the winnow purrs like a kitten; bring along the no-good ducky!

Gradation 12: Please Vote

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